Summer Squash Puffs

Chef's notes

Use a thermometer to confirm the oil holds steady at 365 degrees F before frying; oil that is too cool produces greasy, heavy puffs, while oil above 375 degrees F burns the exterior before the center sets. Cook and mash the squash ahead of time, then spread it on a clean kitchen towel and press out as much moisture as possible before measuring out 2 cups; excess water is the most common reason these puffs fall apart or fail to crisp. Fry in small batches of 4 to 5 puffs at a time so the oil temperature does not drop, which leads to uneven browning and a dense texture. Yellow crookneck or straightneck squash work equally well here; zucchini is a solid substitute but releases even more water, so squeezing it thoroughly is especially important. The mashed squash can be prepared and refrigerated up to one day in advance; bring it to room temperature and blot dry again before mixing the batter for best results.