Potato Latkes

Chef's notes

Squeeze the grated potatoes as dry as humanly possible — excess moisture is the single biggest cause of soggy, falling-apart latkes; wring the cheesecloth two or three times until no more liquid drips out. Check oil temperature before adding the first batch: a small shred of potato dropped in should sizzle vigorously within 2 seconds; if the oil is too cool the latkes absorb it and turn greasy. The internal temperature of a fully cooked latke should reach 165°F; the outside will be deep golden brown and the edges will look set and dry before you flip. Work in small batches and never crowd the skillet — adding too many latkes at once drops the oil temperature and steams rather than fries them. Latkes can be made ahead and kept warm on a wire rack in a 250°F oven for up to 45 minutes, or fully cooled, frozen in a single layer, and reheated at 400°F for 8 to 10 minutes until re-crisped; do not stack them while storing or they will go soft.